"Let's raise our glasses to an increasingly impressive combination of ethics and quality" writes Jonathan Ray in the Daily Telegraph. I'd never consider myself a Telegraph reader, but hats off to a newspaper that has recently been covering fairtrade in a positive style.
The stats: 30 fairtrade wineries in the world. The Co-operative has the biggest selection with 16 wines, and the Fairtrade Reserva Malbec 14% vol, Argentina (£5.99; Co-op) makes it into Jonathan's Top Ten (it's all subjective, but he does a lot of tasting and has a career writing about it).
La Riojana Co-operative is the world's largest maker of organic Fairtrade wines: its 510 members produce some 4.7 million cases a year. This fantastically full-bodied, smooth, chocolaty 100 per cent Malbec from Famatina Valley - made especially for the Co-op. I've gone through a few bottles of it this week. The acid test is always would you buy it again. Answer is yes.